The annual Autumn/Winter collections are often a masterclass in the art of leatherwork, and 2022 is no different. This year, leather was reimagined in a variety of ways on the catwalk, from styling to texture – so much so that it almost felt like a love letter to the textile. Here, we bring you the highlights…
Head-to-toe layers
The way to wear leather in 2022? Every which way you can. It was layered all over the Autumn/Winter runways, from matchy-matchy co-ords to coats and shirts and everything in between. London partywear brand 16Arlington made a case for leather on leather with a fitted jacket and mini skirt in co-ordinating chocolate – with matching boots and handbag to match – while Versace showed a corseted leather coat with patent boots, gloves and leather top beneath.
Meanwhile, Miu Miu followed up its previous season’s cult micro mini skirt with plenty more low-slung separates in leather rather than the previous camel cotton – from trousers to skirts and shorts in varying lengths, teamed with chunky boots and aviator jackets to match. The label’s leather belts were doubled up for extra emphasis on that Y2K-esque hip placement, too.
Over in menswear, Prada showed boxy trench coats layered over trousers in supple leathers, as well as gleaming patent boilersuits.
Moto moment
Move over ‘barbiecore’ – it’s all about ‘bikercore’ this Autumn/Winter. This season’s collections are scattered with moto-inspired ready-to-wear and accessories, from Alexander McQueen’s buckled leather trousers and bustier to Dior’s racing jackets with bold panelling.
The likes of Marni, Diesel and Balmain also contributed to the moto-mania – confirming the biker silhouette as the runway-approved way to wear a leather jacket in 2022. It’s a trend that has been warming up for the past few seasons, mind – peaking back in March 2022 when Rihanna chose an Alexander Wang biker to complete one of her brazen and much-admired pregnancy looks, bare bump on show.
The bold bag
There’s no denying that vivid colour is still having its moment when it comes to small leather goods, thanks in part to the likes of Bottega Veneta, whose bold green hue was everywhere in 2021.
This season, the trend is going one step further with monochromatic leathers and metal hardware – seen in particular at Valentino and Loewe. On the catwalk,
JW Anderson also makes a case for colour with its A/W ’22 offering, as its Bumper bags return with yet more fun shade combinations.
Flirty fringing
The house known for its Intrecciato woven leather technique, Bottega Veneta, took on a new texture by creating statement silhouettes with fronds of fringing. New creative director Matthieu Blazy likened the technique to “craft in motion” – his first collection for the brand saw skirts and dresses with a bouncing underlay of spaghetti-like leather strands swish down the runway. A forest green leather dress was accented with slashed pompoms at the shoulders, too.
And while fringed handbags in raffia were a significant trend during summer, their leather equivalents will have their moment come autumn – with the likes of Marni, Etro and Saint Laurent offering up an array of tassel-trimmed arm candy.
Leather eveningwear
The Autumn/Winter collections certainly reminded the masses that leather isn’t only a fabric destined for outerwear and accessories. Stand-out pieces in Loewe’s collection, meanwhile, were the sculptural mini dresses in block colours, using a ‘moulded’ leather technique that gave movement and stillness at the very same time.
For those that prefer to dress down: Celine brought the return of the leather pencil skirt, worn low-slung on the hip for an effortless take on formality. At Chloe, romantic puff-sleeve midi dresses were reimagined in cream, tan and black leathers and teamed with matching boots.