In the heart of Portugal, a family legacy thrives. Curtumes Ibéria SA, a name synonymous with quality leather production for more than five decades, is treading a line between tradition and forward-thinking.
We sat down with Chief Operating Officer César Rosa to explore his company’s rich history, his commitment to innovation and his passionate advocacy for sustainable leather.
José Maria Rosa: Founder, Curtumes Ibéria
César’s story is inseparably intertwined with Curtumes Ibéria. He explains: ” It all began with my grandfather, who laid the foundation for what we are today. Later, my father and my aunt took over and played a key role in expanding the company. I joined the team more recently, proud to continue the family legacy.”
“Giant playground”
His childhood memories are steeped in the tannery’s magic. “I remember being fascinated by the machines—especially the measuring machine.” He’d sit on it pretending to help, captivated by the textures, smells and rhythm of the work. For young César it was a “giant playground” where he felt a sense of pride and belonging. His first real involvement came later, but those early moments “definitely planted the seed.”
Today his aunt leads the financial department while César and his father manage the tannery’s daily operations. He stresses that the company’s enduring focus remains on “competitive products backed by exceptional service” with “innovation and sustainability at the heart of what we do”.
Before dedicating himself to the family business César pursued a career in athletics, which instilled in him discipline and perseverance. He also studied management, earning degrees in Portugal, California and Norway. He then worked in the Netherlands and London before committing fully to Curtumes Ibéria 12 years ago
What makes Curtumes Ibéria stand out? César points to the delicate balance between tradition and innovation. “As a family business with decades of experience we deeply value craftsmanship and long-term relationships.” Yet they are firmly focussed on the future, investing in new technologies, increased sustainability and product development. Their flexibility allows them to tailor products exclusively for clients by working with them to co-create leather that meets both their aesthetic and performance demands.
“Leather is no longer just a traditional material”
They are able to do create unique products because leather today is far more versatile than it was fifty years ago. It can be engineered for high-performance uses, becoming waterproof, breathable, ultra-light and even fire-resistant. Sustainability has also revolutionised the industry, with metal-free tanning, biodegradable finishes and traceable sourcing now possible. “Leather is no longer just a traditional material,” César says.
The rise of plant-based so-called leather alternatives is a hot topic. César is forthright about their limitations. “Many of these materials are not truly sustainable.” He explains that most require significant percentages of synthetic resins for durability resulting in hybrid materials that are neither biodegradable nor long-lasting. They also fall short on the technical and sensorial performance of real leather. “Leather when produced responsibly remains one of the most sustainable and circular materials available” he says.
César is a keen ambassador for leather, a job that has not always been easy over the last few years. He says that combating negative messages about leather’s sustainability requires education and transparency. “We are also firmly committed to waste reduction and circularity. Through recycling and repurposing initiatives, we minimise landfill use and find innovative ways to give new life to production by-products.
“Innovation is central to our sustainability efforts”
But good practice starts way before the manufacturing process: “Ethical sourcing is a core principle of our supply chain strategy. We work exclusively with suppliers who adhere to responsible and sustainable farming practices.”
He continues: “Finally, innovation is central to our sustainability efforts. We continuously invest in research and development to explore eco-friendlier materials and seek alternatives to traditional tanning agents and methods—striving to create leather that meets the highest standards of quality while reducing environmental impact.”
Sustainability is deeply embedded in Curtumes Ibéria’s operations. They’ve invested heavily in renewable energy and are continuously refining their water purification processes.
“Leather is a canvas for innovation”
César believes more can be done to raise awareness among young designers about leather’s potential and that the RLSD Student Design Competitions are a great way to go about this. His message to young people considering a design career is clear: “Leather is a timeless material that when used responsibly offers unmatched versatility, durability and sustainability. For young designers it’s not just a material of the past—it’s a canvas for innovation. Don’t overlook its potential. Learn about it, experiment with it and you’ll discover a world of creative possibilities.”
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