After live runway shows came to a grinding halt 18 months ago, the buzz of anticipation as fashion month finally got back to the catwalk was huge.
London Fashion Week returned with seasoned names and exciting newcomers taking their designs for spring 2022 to the masses.
And what a joy it was. Models! Music! Clothes that aren’t tracksuits!
Having fun with fashion was back on the agenda with sexy cut-out detailing and bright colours taking dopamine dressing to a new level after what feels like an age of neutral knitwear.
Despite the looks revealed for next spring, there were notable uses of leather that prove it’s not just a warm, winter material.
Here are three shows from exciting designers to make you dream of next year’s summer leather loving.
This debut show caught my eye. KNWLS, the brand set up by Charlotte Knowles and design partner Alexandre Arsenault, has been making its mark with the likes of the Hadid sisters and Dua Lipa wearing their designs. Set in an industrial-looking car park, the brand’s first standalone show was aptly titled ‘Adrenaline’ – and it did not disappoint. Low rise bottoms, mesh tops and waist-cinching bustiers in earthy tones make up the backbone of a collection designed for high impact. But it’s the infusion of leather that really made me take notice. Mixing textures, the duo incorporated leather panels in dresses and tassel fringing on trousers as well as statement bomber jackets treated to look as though they had been speckled with oil. The distressed look in gritty tones proved next summer is set to be a scorcher.
Irish born designer Richard Malone used the V&A Museum as the backdrop for the unveiling of his collection. Incredibly intricate ruched detailing, inspired by the horse rosettes he would help his grandmother make as a child, clever cut outs and dramatic draping reigned supreme. The runway also saw the designer reveal his limited-edition collaboration with Mulberry. As part of the brand’s 50th anniversary celebrations, the capsule range combines the heritage of Mulberry with Richard Malone’s distinctive, bold designs. Reworking iconic bags like the Bayswater alongside modern shapes in gold standard leather makes it a noteworthy accessories collection. In addition, leather coats and patchwork details seen on the runway were made from Mulberry deadstock leather, showcasing a commitment to sustainable practices.
The dreariness of the lockdown was placed firmly in the past at Supriya Lele’s show. With a collection made for the dancefloor, the colour palette was bright and the clothes were hedonistic. Low-slung trousers, sheer crop tops and expertly slashed cut outs took us back to the Nineties era of rave culture. Buttery soft leather tops and dresses cut to a halterneck shape, as well as drop-waist flares and bomber jackets are sure to make an appearance in A-lister wardrobes. Fun and seductive with a wave of nostalgia makes Supriya Lele’s collection a must-have… if you’re cool enough to wear it.