The rise of leather tailoring in modern menswear: From rebellion to refinement
24th October 2025
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Once a symbol of rule-breaking and underground cool, leather is experiencing something of a menswear renaissance. But this time, it isn’t just about attitude, it’s about elegance.
At the 2025 Academy Museum Gala and across this year’s fashion weeks in Paris, Milan and London, a subtle but striking shift unfolded. Leather, long considered the material of bikers and rebels, walked the runway tailored, tapered and redefined. Think sharply cut leather trousers, softened blazers, minimalist button-downs and cropped jackets, all crafted from one of fashion’s oldest, most resilient natural materials. Real leather.
So what changed?
For one, the conversation around material honesty is getting louder. As designers and wearers alike reconsider what quality looks and feels like, real leather is increasingly favoured for its longevity, versatility and character. Unlike synthetics made out of plastics that wrinkle, crack or peel with time, leather evolves. It wears in, not out. It adapts to its wearer. And most importantly, it lasts.
Left: Hermes Right: YSL
That message was on full display in collections from Bode, Hermès and Saint Laurent this year. Hermès showed woven leather shirts and trousers with a soft drape and summer-friendly finish. Bode introduced relaxed-cut leather trousers with playful piping, while Saint Laurent used leather suiting to blur the lines between strength and sensuality.
Even the red carpet leaned in. At the Academy Museum Gala, Jeff Goldblum turned heads in a winter-ready tux by ERL, paired with high-shine patent leather gloves. Small detail, big impact. It was a reminder that leather doesn’t need to shout to make a statement. Sometimes, it whispers, refinement, confidence, craft.
Leather tailoring is on the increase not only because it looks good, but because it means something. It signals a rejection of fast fashion in favour of slow style. It rewards care. It celebrates individuality. In a world that often feels disposable, there’s something deeply reassuring about a material that only gets better with age.
For 2026, expect menswear to lean further into this blend of structure and softness. Tailored leather trousers will show up in deep tones and earthy neutrals. Jackets will go cropped, double-breasted or collarless. Textures will range from matte to glazed, with minimal hardware and cleaner silhouettes. The focus is on form, feel and fit.
In short: leather is not a trend. It’s a tool. A material that speaks volumes without raising its voice. And in the year ahead, it’s what well-dressed men will be wearing – with purpose.