
REAL LEATHER. STAY DIFFERENT. reveals international competition winner: Emily Omesi from the FIT, NYC
We unveil the winner and her design as featured on the front cover of Rollacoaster magazine and modelled by Sano Turdiev
INTERVIEW WITH YU LUN LU
Tell us about the inspiration behind your project:
My apparel project The sight is symbolic for the objectifications and labels that women face. At the same time, I ponder there is a correlation between women’s clothing and the chance of being abused or not.
Inspiration originally came from the exhibition in Belgian called “What were you wearing?” The displacements are clothing for victims of sexual assault. There were T-shirts, trousers, uniform, and other daily outfits; however different the clothing was it came to the same result.
Secondly, something that influenced my design was that women in some areas and religions must follow dress code rules and regulations. One rule I explored was that a woman cannot expose their body silhouette as it is portrayed as seductive and a crime. But my question is, when women follow the rules, are they truly treated properly and respectfully? The answer appears to be no, and you can see this from the data of sexual violence in these areas. So, no matter what women choose to wear even if it is tightly wrapped, they may be maliciously misinterpreted, and people might still cast a contemptuous look; In the eyes of the perpetrators, these bodies are naked, their sexual characteristics are emphasized, and they are also seen as objects that can be treated at will.
With the concept in mind, I used the shape of a loose cloak, stitched together the curves of the body with different material. I exaggerated the sexual parts such as face/chest/vagina/buttocks with three-dimensional and protruding shapes. The thin mesh is a symbol of isolation to separate the sight from the outside world; the mesh looks black from a distance, but you can still see inside when you are looking closer, symbolizing a looming and fragile barrier.
How has this competition influenced your view of working with leather in the future?
I am used to working with fabrics, sometimes with other natural materials. This experience allowed me to remember that using new materials is about learning a new lesson. There are interesting and technical details in the process and can create unexpected special results.
What are your thoughts on leather and sustainability, and how do you think leather can adapt to a fashion industry increasingly focused on sustainability?
I think products made of leather are vital and durable. Nowadays, when we focus on developing new functional and eco-friendly textiles to find where our next step is in the future fashion industry, it is time to look back on what we have already and how it can be transformed, refined, and combined with others.
What do you think makes leather a great material to design with?
Leather has many forms and textures, so it could be presented in different ways and styles according to the creations; it could be hard and firm, but also soft and smooth. For artists, designers, and any creator, that is a great feature.
Instagram: ola_olana
LinkedIn: Yu Lun Lu
Click here to learn more about leather and sustainability.
We unveil the winner and her design as featured on the front cover of Rollacoaster magazine and modelled by Sano Turdiev
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