We first met Tamar Elbaz in Milan in 2023, just before she presented her design, WHIM, to our panel of judges. As the Apparel Category winner of the Real Leather. Stay Different. International Student Design Competition, she went on to claim the joint Overall Winner title. Since then, we’ve watched her journey unfold—from competition champion to a rising, multi-award-winning designer, now on the verge of launching her own brand.
We caught up with Tamar to talk about her journey since winning RLSD, her evolving design philosophy and what’s next on the horizon.
Read the full interview below:
How has your design philosophy evolved since participating in Real Leather. Stay Different.?
Participating in Real Leather. Stay Different. was an empowering experience that changed the way I approach design. Since then, my philosophy has become more focused on blending creativity with sustainability. I aim to work with natural and recyclable materials, creating designs that are not only aesthetic but also environmentally responsible.
Have any new opportunities or collaborations come your way as a result?
The competition exposed me to the international arena and opened up various opportunities for collaborations, job offers, and international competition wins.
Looking back, what did the experience teach you, both creatively and professionally?
The experience taught me a great deal about handling pressure and criticism, especially when presenting my work in front of key industry figures. I had to deliver presentations in English, which is not my first language. I learned how to accept feedback constructively, how to articulate my ideas clearly, and how to present my work in the most compelling way.
What have you been doing after? We’ve seen you make some beautiful clothes and be involved in some great events. Can you tell us more about that?
After the competition, I launched my final collection as part of my last year of studying Fashion Design at Shenkar College. The collection was greatly influenced by the piece I created for the competition, both in its aesthetic and in using leather as a primary material. The inspiration I drew from it was also incorporated into the collection. With this collection, I won two prestigious awards in the Lab of Mittelmoda competition: the first and most important was first place in the Innovation category, and the second was the Lineapelle award for the Italian leather category.
What role does sustainability play in your work today, and has your perspective on leather changed after the competition?
The competition certainly influenced my perspective. I realized the importance of sustainability and working with eco-friendly materials. Leather remains a central element in my designs. Through the competition, I gained a deeper understanding of this incredible material, which allows me to test my boundaries and push my creativity further.
Have you explored new techniques or materials that have influenced your designs?
As a designer, I am always striving to explore new materials and techniques to keep my designs relevant. Recently, I’ve experimented with various techniques for sculpting leather, whether it’s threading wires into different parts of the garment and sculpting or using hand-sewing techniques for patterning.
In what ways has your creative vision developed over time?
My creative vision is constantly evolving. I strive to innovate and remain in constant motion. I aim to design garments that are functional and wearable, that meet the needs of the wearer, yet are still designed in a way that is fresh, innovative, and reflective of my unique design handwriting.
Your RLSD piece was deeply connected to the human form. How does your latest project continue or expand on those themes?
My latest project certainly continues my exploration of the human form, specifically the relationship between the body and the garment. As a former dancer, I have a deep connection to movement, and my project focuses on the body, movement, and space, with a desire to create motion in a static object. In this project, I explored the relationship between the body and garment, leading to the concept of bags in the shape of high heels, which are traditionally a symbol of female oppression. I chose to transform them into a bag that a woman can carry and control, thus reinterpreting an object that has historically been a symbol of oppression.
Has your perspective on fashion, craftsmanship, or design philosophy shifted since then?
Since then, my perspective has certainly changed, especially in terms of the use of sustainable and eco-friendly materials. A significant part of my current philosophy focuses on preserving aesthetics while maintaining social and environmental responsibility.
Are there new elements of the human form or movement that you’re exploring in your current work?
There are definitely new elements of movement and the body that I’m exploring in my current work. Movement is an integral part of my design process, and I continuously examine the relationship between the moving body and the garment. I strive to explore new boundaries in garment design, allowing the body to transform within the constraints of the garment. My work seeks to generate movement in clothing, even when it is presented as a static object.
What continues to draw you to leather as a material?
Leather is a material with many unique qualities that allow me to explore new boundaries and push my creativity forward. Additionally, leather is a durable material that lasts for a long time, and its aging process actually enhances its value, adding a sense of luxury over time.
Have you discovered any new techniques or methods that excite you?
I’ve discovered new sculpting techniques with leather, such as threading wires and hand-sewing patterns, which allow me to create movement in garments even when they are in a static form.
How has your process changed, from concept to execution, since your RLSD win?
Since my win, my process has definitely become more efficient. I place greater emphasis on inspiration versus design, and I now undergo a deeper conceptual and design process, constantly challenging my designs.
How do you balance creativity and craftsmanship when working with leather?
Leather is inherently challenging, but the beauty lies in creating within its limitations and pushing my creativity forward. While experimenting with new techniques, such as threading wires and hand-sewing, the unpredictable nature of leather allows for spontaneity in design, sometimes resulting in outcomes even better than I expected.
What challenges have you faced when experimenting with leather, and how did you overcome them?
Leather is a challenging material in itself, but its beauty lies in working within its limitations. What was challenging with some of the new techniques was that I couldn’t always predict how the material would react. However, this unpredictability allowed for spontaneity in my process and often led to better outcomes than I anticipated.
What’s next for you? Any upcoming projects or collaborations you can share?
Currently, I am working on launching my own brand, with a lot of exciting surprises ahead that I can’t share just yet. However, I promise it will be worth the wait. I’m working slowly and meticulously to ensure I provide the highest quality products.
How do you see your work evolving in the next few years?
I see my work evolving toward building a brand that combines minimalist aesthetics with sophistication, alongside innovation and the use of new and challenging materials and techniques. I hope to reach the international stage, continue spreading my creations worldwide, and launch a brand where I can fully realize my vision as a designer.
Josslyn Shi from California College of Art has been crowned Overall Winner of the Real Leather. Stay Different. International Student Design Competition at a glittering final event held at the U.S. Embassy in London.
Contributor editor Nicola Davies finds out more about the sustainable clothing rental brand.
Having previously worked for high fashion houses such as Chloé, Balenciaga and Paco Rabanne, it was actually the unsettling image of piled-up leather offcuts left unused by big name brands that inspired Paris-based designer Bea Recoder to launch Reco.
Aside from their obvious practical uses, boat shoes are having something of a moment in 2024 – in fact, the leather lace-ups have been popping up everywhere from street style to runways.
After working with leather for a while, you will come to realise the importance of details. No matter the quality of the leather, if the cutting or stitching or finishing isn’t right, you’ll end up with something shoddy.
