The leathers that shape my styling

Celebrity stylist Mike talks us through his favourite lux leathers for his magazine and celebrity edits

The leathers that shape my styling

By Mike Adler

When I’m styling someone for a shoot or dressing a celebrity, leather is always one of the first fabrics to catch my eye. The designers usually set the stage by choosing the leather, but my job is to make the edits—to tweak, layer and style it so it feels right for the talent wearing it and the story we’re telling. Over the years, I’ve worked with some amazing types of leather, and each one has its own personality.

 

Nappa – the polished classic

Nappa is the one that shows up again and again. Designers love it for its softness and luxe finish, and I love it because it wears beautifully and carries a visual lustre. Whether it’s a jacket, corset, glove or boot, it has an edge and sophistication that works on camera and in real life. My edits are often about balancing Nappa’s polish—sometimes pairing it with something unexpected to stop it from feeling too “perfect.”

I styled Elle Macpherson on the cover of Schon Magazine in an Alexandre Vauthier Nappa leather jacket, a piece that carried power and elegance in equal measure. I also styled Ivy Getty in Giambattista Valli Nappa leather boot for Von Magazine, where the boots’ sleek finish, design and colour added a refined edge to the story. Both looks show how Nappa, in its many forms, can shape an image with sophistication while still leaving room for attitude.

Photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth

 

Suede – the cool factor

When suede comes into the mix, it instantly changes the mood. I love how it absorbs light instead of bouncing it back, giving photos depth and richness. Designers bring me incredible suede pieces, and my role is to decide how to make them less precious—how to let them feel lived-in, rock ’n’ roll, while still chic.

A perfect example was when I styled Maisie Williams in a suede Saint Laurent dress for a shoot with S/ Magazine Canada. The material’s matte softness gave her look a quiet power—striking on camera without ever feeling over-styled. That’s what suede does best, creating effortless cool that lingers in the image.

For Von Magazine’s Adrenaline Issue, I also styled a Roberto Cavalli suede trouser and bralette set. The pairing was young and bold, showing how suede can move with bohemian roots into modern and daring fashion. On set, the richness of the patchwork suede added dimension, texture and strength to her silhouette and the final image is both glossy and punchy!

 

Maisie photographed by Rankin. Von Magazine photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth

 

 

Patent – Full Drama Mode

Patent leather is never subtle, and that’s why I love working with it. Its high-shine finish can dominate a look, so when designers show me patent coats, dresses or boots, my edits are about controlling that drama—placing it where it makes a statement without overwhelming the whole outfit.

I styled Thayna Soares in a striking patent trench coat for Von Magazine–over lingerie to balance the style. The glossy finish became the centerpiece of the look—dramatic, unapologetic, and unforgettable. Another moment I loved was styling Elizabeth Hurley in a Gucci red patent mini dress for Sunday Times Style. The combination of its bold red color and high-shine surface was pure theatre: an image that was impossible to ignore and proof that patent, when styled right, becomes the undeniable focal point. 

 

Photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth.

 

Performance leather – toughness with style

Leather has always been—and can be engineered to be—a material of protection. From biker shorts and trousers to utility vest and jackets, it carries durability and strength, but it also has the ability to transform into high-fashion pieces with the right design and styling.

Take the Von Magazine shoot I styled with Damian Hurley by Ellen von Unwerth—the standout piece was a pair of DSQUARED2 leather biker trousers. Engineered for toughness and attitude, it spoke to leather’s protective heritage. But through Ellen’s lens and my styling, it became more than functional—the look became high-fashion luxury: a mix of youthful rebellion and sharp sophistication.

For Von Magazine’s Adrenaline Issue, in the story “Ride the Tiger,” I styled models Marie Belle and Leona Naomi Wong in David Koma mini leather bike shorts, paired with David Koma patent leather and Casadei leather boots. The combination pushed performance leather into a sleek, body-conscious and high-gloss space—proving it doesn’t have to be heavy or traditional. With statement footwear, the look embodied protection reimagined as unapologetic fashion. That’s the magic of performance leather and fashion: it holds onto its protective essence while evolving into pure style.

 

Photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth

 

Colour & metallic – the unexpected curveball

Designers have gotten bolder with colour, and I’ve loved working with metallic silvers, burgundies, and deep greens. They can feel risky, but with the right edit—toning down everything else—they become the perfect twist. It’s about knowing when the leather should sing and when the rest of the outfit should step back.

One of my favorite examples of this was styling Elle Macpherson in a LaQuan Smith leather look for School Magazine. The deep color elevated the leather beyond its usual territory, making the piece not just an outfit but a statement. With the right balance, it showed how coloured leather can carry both power and glamour without overwhelming the image.

Photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth.

 

Sustainability in fashion is no longer optional—it’s essential! Leather plays a unique role here because, when it’s well made and properly cared for, it can last for decades. Unlike fast-fashion fabrics that wear out quickly, leather evolves over time, gaining character, softening, and improving with age.

Designers, stylists, and wearers alike are embracing this by turning to archival pieces, reworking garments and extending the life of what already exists. Each time a leather jacket is restyled, or a pair of trousers is brought back into rotation, it challenges the throwaway mentality of fashion. In my own work, I’ve seen how restyling a leather piece can breathe new life into it—proving that true style doesn’t have to be fleeting.

Designers bring their vision, and we shape it to fit the talent, the shoot, the moment. Sometimes it’s sleek and polished, sometimes it’s rebellious or dramatic. But time after time, leather proves that true style doesn’t just change with the season—it lasts! That’s why I keep coming back to it. Leather stays different, every single time!

X mike