The iconic Dr Martens boot has quite the history – from humble beginnings producing work boots in Northamptonshire to becoming a symbol of anti-establishTment self-expression in the 1970s. Today, the brand is a little more mainstream (thanks to a resurgence in the late 2010s and some recent viral styles) – but having made some big sustainability statements, we’re hoping the brand is set to become a trailblazer once again when it comes to leather sourcing and transparency.
Dr Martens has picked up its eco efforts in recent years – and as a global fashion brand, its honesty in reporting its shortcomings (and, of course, its aims for the future) is refreshing. It was one of a handful of brands to invest in Peterborough-based recycled leather supplier Gen Pheonix in 2023, allowing the launch of the ‘Reclaimed Leather’ collection in early 2024; that same year, it stated its goal to achieve complete traceability of its leather supply chain.
In fact, the brand’s head of sustainability, Tuze Mekik, has been vocal about Dr Martens’ movement towards leather traceability for years. Speaking with retail industry magazine Drapers in 2023, she said: “Improving the sustainability of leather is one of the key things we are working on – traceability, the environmental impact, where it comes from. There’s a lot of energy and effort going into that space right now.”
She added that she predicts that UK laws will eventually change regarding product traceability. “With traceability, we are definitely anticipating legislation. It’s happening in Europe and we believe the UK is going to follow that. With digital product passports, the consumer is going to see where everything is coming from. So in that sense, traceability is really important.”
In 2023, Dr Martens shared that 89% of its leather was traceable back to its abattoir, with an aim of 100% by 2024. It stated: “To reach our target, we will be engaging an expert third party to undertake a detailed mapping of all abattoirs in our leather supply chain. We are confident this exercise will significantly close the remaining gap in our target.” The brand has yet to release a report stating whether that was achieved. It did confirm, however, that 100% of its leather is now sourced from Leather Working Group certified tanneries.
As for what’s next, Dr Martens has already declared that it’s aiming to source 100% of its natural materials from regenerative agriculture by 2040 – and reach zero deforestation in its leather supply chain by the end of this year.
Ultimately, it’s the supply chain that matters. As Tuze has pointed out, the majority of the brand’s emissions come from its network of suppliers – but she shares that communication and relationship building is key. “99% of our emissions come from our supply chain – it’s a challenge to get the data you need from them,” she says. “Every company has suppliers in different parts of the world, with different regulations.”
“But ultimately, it’s the human element – hearts and minds – that is important when you talk to suppliers. Trying to make sure that they are with you on this journey, because I think we’re all in it together.”
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